Tips for a most cost-effective Locker Solution
- 1. Ship unassembled - you will save money on both material cost and freight cost. Assembling lockers is like playing with a giant Erector set. Everything is pre-drilled, comes with all needed hardware and assembly instructions can be downloaded from this site.
- By default, all our locker pricing is based on "triple frame" construction - 3 frames of lockers that will assemble (or come preassembled, if available) as one unit. Divide the total number of frames you need by 3. If it isn't evenly divisible by 3, there may be a slight up-charge for the remaining 1 or 2 frames. Frame counts that are evenly divisible by 3 will get you the best pricing.
- Consider adding sloped tops and/or closed base kits. While this doesn't sound like a money-saving suggestion, it can be in some cases. Our discounts work on a variable scale depending on your total order value. Sometimes, the slight extra charge of the top and bottom kits is just enough to push you to the next discount bracket, saving you more money than if you hadn't ordered the extras in the first place.
- Increase locker size by depth before increasing by width. The cost difference between a 12", 15" and 18" deep locker is minimal. The cost difference between a 12", 15" and 18" wide locker is substantial. Increasing by depth also gets you more usable locker volume without using more wall space.
- Unless you're trying to match an existing installation or need a certain "look", consider other configurations that will get you the number of locker openings you need. Ex: 15 frames of Double tier (30 doors) vs. 10 frames of Triple tier (30 doors).
- If water or moisture is a concern, plastic lockers would be the better, albeit more expensive, choice. Plastic lockers won't rust in wet or humid environments. If water generally isn't a concern, steel lockers are much more economical.
- Prepay your order with a MasterCard or Visa credit card.
